The Deep Start program is a program for when the lawn has deteriorated to the extent that it needs to completely start over. You may have 80% weeds and 20% bermuda. You may have bare soil in some places, and moss in others. The Deep Start is a more intensive plan that will reclaim the soil, condition it and return the Bermuda grass to health, without reseeding or tearing up your front yard.

If you don't think things are as far gone as this, you may want to try the Rescue Program instead. After this first year, you will use the Yearly Maintenance Program to maintain your healthy lawn. As usual, consult the Bermuda Tools page to understand what products we will use.

The Deep Start program begins before the start of the growing season, in February. If you are just getting to this in mid-season, start now by implementing the Rescue Program, and continue following the Yearly Maintenance Program through the remainder of this year. Then plan on beginning the Deep Start in February of next year.

My Experience

I followed this program for an entire year to test it out. I started with a front lawn full of weeds and about 30% grass. By the end of the year, I had 80% grass that was significantly greener and more dense than when I started. It was not completely where I wanted it to be but the change was so dramatic that I became convinced. I started with a lawn on the verge of despair and I ended up with something that I could begin to respect and appreciate.

The change did not happen all at once. I patiently worked all through the spring without seeing much improvement. As to be expected with Bermuda lawns, it wasn't until September that I slowly realized that the weeds were down and the grass was much fuller and much greener. By November, I knew that I would be continuing this for another year and that things would only improve.

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Stage 1

February:

The beginning of February may well have snow on the ground and the temps regularly falling below freezing. Wait until the snow is clear and the ground is no longer frozen. Also, we aren't going to do anything with fertilizer or organics just yet. Instead, February is a month of preparation. In order to truly begin the Deep Start program, we need to be ready.

Order Supplies

We're targeting the last week in February or the first week in March to begin the applications. That means we need to order our supplies to be ready at that time. Read through this program and see what materials we will be using, including fertilizer, HumiChar, herbicides, pesticides, etc. Some of these will be available at the local Lowes, but others need to be ordered from Amazon.

At the beginning of the season, make sure you have the tools to apply your materials. We're going to need to apply granular products such as fertilizers and pre-emergents so we'll need a reliable spreader. I use a Scotts drop spreader because I need the control in my front yard. The other thing we'll need is a spray tank for applying liquid fertilizer and liquid selective herbicides. I like a 2 gallon tank with a battery pressurizer and a clog-free nozzle.

Mulch

This is also a good time to define the boundaries of your lawn. If available, pick up several bags of shredded bark mulch to cover your front beds and the roots around the base of trees. Setting out these boundaries at the very beginning will show you exactly where to concentrate your materials and applications.

Soil Test

Normally, I don't take the effort to do a soil test, but if you've found your way to the Deep Start program, then its time to bring this tool into practice. We can really benefit from knowing all there is to know about our soil. Once the ground is clear of snow and no longer frozen, we need to take a soil test and send it off to the Ag Extension Office. We want to get this done before we begin applying any fertilizer that will throw off the test.

At the start of the year, I sometimes get a little impatient and feel the pressure to begin putting down fertilizer. Instead, it is better to get this soil test done first.

Check the Soil Tests page to learn more information about this process.

pH Balance. Our first application will be to adjust the pH if the soil test indicates it is necessary. As mentioned before, make a spreader application of lime, or sulfur to correct acidity problems.

An application of gypsum will address calcium deficiency and will also buffer pH extremes in both directions. This should be well watered into the soil, if there is no rain in the forecast. Similarly, adjust Iron if the test indicates it.

Biochar is a soil conditioner that adds organic material to the soil. It adds carbon components to the soil that increase fertilizer effectiveness and holds moisture. Reconditioning soil with biochar is a multi-year process but we need to begin now. Humic acid is not at peak effectiveness at these temperatures but HumiChar is perfectly acceptable now. We're going to be applying HumiChar every month for reconditioning.

Peat Moss. After the biochar, note any bare areas of soil, and particularly areas that have formed a hardened crust on the surface. Spread peat moss over the lawn, with a heavy application on the bare spots. This will add a moisture-holding component to the surface of the soil.

These three applications need to be made in the last week in February or shortly thereafter.

FEBRUARY SUMMARY

Check your stores and order supplies for the coming months.
Complete a soil test
Mulch around trees and flower beds
Balance acidity and micronutrients based on soil test
Apply HumiChar
Apply peat moss, especially to bare soil

March

The first week of March is a critical time for pre-emergent herbicide. Use a granular pre-emergent like Barricade. This is probably the single most important application you will make all Spring.

Next, you'll use a light treatment of 10-10-10 to prepare the soil as the plants emerge from dormancy. At the same time, accompany it with a treatment of HumiChar. Try to time this application for just before a predicted rain.

MARCH SUMMARY

Week 1

Apply granular Pre-Emergent - Barricade

Week2

Apply HumiChar
Apply 10-10-10 at 1 lb per 1000 sq ft

April

By the first week in April, the temperatures are consistently in the mid 60s F during the day. Bermuda grass begins to emerge from dormancy but is a long way from its summer growth pattern.

The first week of April, make an application of liquid pre-emergent like BioAdvanced Season Long Weed Control. This also contains a post-emergent herbicide that will begin killing the weeds. This is the second application of pre-emergent and it extends the window of suppressing weed growth.

We'll make a second application of 10-10-10 at full strength to prepare the soil for good growing conditions. At the same time, make another application of HumiChar.

Use Miracle-Gro liquid fertilizer for lawns in the hose end sprayer. You may apply this every weekend in April if you wish.

Grubs

We're going to assume that very little has been done for the lawn in a regimented way for the past several years. If this is true, it's likely that grubs have run unchecked under your grass for that same amount of time and are taking a toll on the roots. Frankly, we don't know what the grub situation looks like, but you're sure to have some grubs in your lawn. Even if insects are not a major concern for you, in the Deep Start program we're going to relieve whatever pressure those grubs are putting on your grass with a insecticide treatment.

At the end of April, make an application of Preventive grub control such as Scott's GrubEx to control grubs in the lawn over the next 3 months.

Mowing

If you let your bermuda grass grow a bit taller last fall, now is the time to cut it back to about 1" to 1.5". This is a partial scalp for the first cut only. Don't mulch, but bag our clippings and discard. These clippings have herbicide on them, so don't compost them.

Cut your grass every week, raising the deck back up to 2".

By the end of April, we've put down all our preventives and pre-emergents and we've conditioned the soil with Biochar and peat moss. We're now ready for the growing season to begin.

APRIL SUMMARY

Week 1

Lower mowing height to 1-1/2"
Apply 10-10-10 at 3 lb per 1000 sq ft with HumiChar
Apply Liquid pre-emergent

Week 2

Apply Miracle gro liquid fertilizer any time in April
Raise mowing height to 2.5" gradually through the month.

Week 4

Apply Grub Ex insect control

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May

At this point the lawn should be in full growth mode. We're going to be cutting the grass every week as before. If possible, cut on a 5-day rotation: Sunday, Friday, Wednesday, Sunday.

First week in May, use a complete lawn fertilizer, 16-4-8 (or 16-0-8, depending on the soil test). Use the rate on the bag. Add HumiChar to this application.

At this time, you will begin to see the effect of the selective herbicide you sprayed in April. This may result in dead patches of lawn as the clover is killed off and the bermuda hasn't had enough heat to grow back. Support those areas with a liquid Miracle gro application.

By the end of May, the spring green up will be fully complete.

MAY SUMMARY

Week 1

Apply Complete lawn fertilizer 16-4-8. Apply HumiChar at the same time.

Week 3

Foliar feed with Miracle Gro liquid fertilizer.

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June

First week in June, use a complete lawn fertilizer 16-4-8

Cut the grass as often as possible. This is when you must commit to a "3 times in 2 weeks" mowing schedule. Sunday, Friday, Wednesday, Sunday. Mowing often promotes lateral growth of bermuda grass.

We are going to apply another round of selective herbicide to get rid of any remaining weeds. To do that, we need to evaluate the state of the lawn. The first application of "Season Long" has done some work so we're going to modify our application to the number of weeds that are left. For this Deep Start program, we'll tend toward a whole-lawn application, but if all you need to do is spot spray, that's preferable. Spray with Q4 and BioAdvanced Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer.

My lawn tends toward dryness. Because of this, I have very few problems with fungus attacking my lawn. However, this is the month to examine your grass for evidence of fungal attack and treat if necessary.

JUNE SUMMARY

Week 1

Apply Complete lawn fertilizer 16-4-8 with HumiChar
Examine lawn and use fungicide if necessary

Week 3

Spot treat weeds, if necessary

Stage 4

July - August

Once you reach July and August, temperatures are consistently high and it you need to do very little other than cut the grass and be ready to water if there is no rain for a week.

Stage 5

September

First week in September, use a complete lawn fertilizer 16-4-8.

Treat with HumiChar again.

Raise your deck height to 2-1/2" to prepare for winter

SEPTEMBER SUMMARY

Week 1

Apply complete lawn fertilizer 16-4-8
Spot Treat for remaining weeds
Apply HumiChar
Raise mowing height to 2-1/2"

October

In zone 8, October is still a productive month, though day-length is shorter and temps are cooler.

Another application of Barricade pre-emergent. This will carry the lawn through the winter months when the cool season weeds emerge.

Temperatures can remain warm during the day, and typically will not drop below freezing overnight. What this means is that there is still some growth potential that could benefit from fertilizer, but you no longer want to push high nitrogen. Instead use a 10-10-10 fertilizer to strengthen the lawn over the winter.

Potassium plays a role in stand persistence through the winter. Potassium and phosphorus increases root growth and improves drought resistance. Maintains turgor; reduces water loss and wilting.

OCTOBER SUMMARY

Week 1

consider applying a 10-10-10 fertilizer as a final application.
Apply Barricade pre-emergent
Continue to mow on a weekly basis to keep the grass uniform.

NOVEMBER

November is the end of the growing season. Currently, some green grass still exists but the trees have begun to shed their leaves and will smother your lawn, if you don't act promptly to deal with it. Be ready to mow and bag your leaves to get them off your lawn, or the grass will become thin.

No more fertilizer is necessary, but now is the time to put a final flourish on the front yard. During this month, we will stop the weekly mowing cycle and the lawn will basically retain it condition until the spring. This means some final edging, weed wacking around fences and mailbox, hard surface weeding, and blowing will last all winter.

Trim the front bedding plants,
Weed and renew the mulch in the beds
Mulch around the feet of trees,
Think about some thinning cuts to thin out the canopy of the trees, so they won't block as much sunlight.
Prune the rose bushes
Sweep the driveway, the apron, and the curb front so there is only bare concrete

The Mountain and the Wolf

GardenWatch

Bermuda Guide: Deep Start Program