Practical Garden Management

 My purpose here is to put together a very high level perspective on managing a productive vegetable garden that is used as a source of sustainability for a normal family.

1.  Raised Beds.  Start with a gardening space that you can manage with an easy effort.  It's easy to start out enthusiastically and plant hard through the spring, but by the time July rolls around, you are exhausted and have no desire to go outside in the heat.

If you garden in raised beds:

• You have significant control over the quality of your soil.  In-ground beds are at the mercy of whatever hard-pan clay soil the developers left after they leveled your lot.  Rehabilitating that inhospitable soil can take 5-10 years and considerable frustration.  Making a finished soil your top layer in a raised bed creates ideal growing conditions for your very first year.
  
• Raised beds can give you discrete, carefully defined boundaries that are considerably easier to manage.  It gives you clear area for measuring fertilizer, planning crops
  
• It is easier to keep the space weed free.  Beds raised 18" above the surface of the lawn helps to keep down weeds and reduce nuisance pests like rabbits, squirrels, and the family dog.
• Distinct beds allows you to better manage disease, minimize transmission

2.  Start small.  Begin with 1-2 beds and go through the entire process first.  Then add more beds as you are able to manage them.

3.  Plant what you will eat.  Think about things that you will use in your kitchen and pair that list with things that are easy to grow.  Your objective is to create a list of things you can use. This will form your initial planting list.

4.  Find the recipes that you need to prepare the vegetables that you grow.  For example, when growing radishes, I can use it fresh in a salad, pickle it in the refrigerator, or roast it on a sheet pan with mixed vegetables.  If your objective is to preserve the harvest, like tomatoes, put that plan in place.  Consider both the preservation method, and also the recipes that use the preserved produce.

Next, ask yourself how often will you want to prepare that crop.  Will I eat radishes once a week, or once a month?  This will give me guidance on how much of it to plant.

5.  Research the varieties that work best for your region and the uses you will put them to.  Do you need hardneck or softneck garlic?  Are you looking for slicing tomatoes or tomatoes for sauce?  

6.  Research the growing techniques you will use for your chosen variety. Which potatoes will match the length of your growing season?  Do you need an 8' stake or a cage for your tomatoes?

7.  Think in terms of three season gardening.  Put on your list Spring crops, Summer crops and Fall crops.  For each season, identify the time you need to plant outside in the garden. This transplant becomes a marker for the rest of the calendar and is often in May for most summer crops.  Count back two months to identify when you need to start seeds indoors to grow into transplants.  Count forward the "days to maturity" written on the seed packet to know when to harvest (typically 70-90 days).

Then, look at ways that you can put in a Spring crop that will be ready by May.  For example early maturing peas, lettuce, and radishes.  Use the same three dates:  start with transplant date, go back for seeding date, go forward the days to maturity for harvest date and make sure that falls in early May.

Finally, most summer crops are ready for harvest by the end of August.  In my area, there is still plenty of time to mature a crop between September and the really cold weather of late November. 

8.  Identify Succession Partners.  Start with main crops, grown from May through August.  Then find a seasonal replacement for the Spring season and the Fall season.  The crops grown in the cool weather seasons can be the same or different.  This will give you a suite of three vegetables that will occupy the same garden bed throughout the year.  

These three partners, grown in succession, means that you always have something growing in your garden.  Because they are determined ahead of time, you already have made preparations for them;  you have the seeds ready, you know the spacing and supports they need,  you've already got them started in seed trays.

For example you may want to start with peas in the Spring, switch to Kentucky Blue pole green beans for the Summer, and then back to Provider bush beans in the Fall.

9.  Stay with the plan.  As with all gardening, a 30 minute session in the garden 3 times a week will keep on top of most activities that it requires.  Frequent short sessions are easier and more effective that waiting until you have a big project.  An overly complicated plan is hard to stick to.  Having no plan is easy to get behind and lose interest.  

Instead, keep to the seasonal schedule and the weekly sessions.

10.  Record your activities and observations in your garden journal.  Keep a record by date of your weekly activities.  What are your planting. How is it growing.  What is the weather like.  What is being harvested.

Make it a habit to check back on how things were doing a year ago by reading previous journal entries.

11.  Set up a place for starting seeds.  You will need a place for initial germination of seeds, and then a place to transplant your seedlings into 2-4" cups that can be grown on into a size for the garden.  This could be a section of your office, a corner of your garage, or an outdoor greenhouse.  Take the steps necessary to provide light and warmth, which could be heat mats and LED shop lights or full-on hydroponic systems, or simply a bright window.

Garden Planting Calendar

 I have been working on making my gardening more focused and streamlined, and less experimental and impulse driven.  For me, that means focusing on what works and is the most productive.  The result of this is a gardening calendar that gives me an overview of the entire growing year.  At any given month, I can check the calendar and see what I should have planted in each of the beds, and what is coming up to be harvested.

The calendar is based on four raised beds.  There's also an optional bed for herbs or other experimental crops.  Obviously, this could be four separate beds, or a single garden plot broken into four sections.  I've chosen crops that I like, that are easy to grow and productive in my area.  

If I want to I can change one vegetable for another, or add a new garden bed and start an additional line of plants.  But the idea here is to minimize the chaos and reduce the decision fatigue.  Garlic flows into potatoes, which flows into Fall garlic.

Click on the calendar to expand it to full size.

This calendar tells me a few key points to planning my gardening year:

 

1.  I have scheduled a main crop with an accompanying cool season crop.  The main crop is scheduled for transplanting in May, and being done by September.  The cool season crop takes advantage of the Fall and Spring growing seasons.

2.  The succession companions are always the same.  When the tomatoes are done, the radishes go in.  I don't need to puzzle about what is coming next or which plant strikes my fancy.  I know exactly what I'm going to next.  

 

This allows me to think about succession ahead of time, as well.  So as an example, the heavy feeding tomato is followed by the lighter feeding radish.  The root zone radish breaks up the fibrous root network of the tomato.

3.  Within the vegetable type, I have latitude to select varieties if I want to experiment.   One planting may be of Red Globe radish, while the next might be Daikon, or French Breakfast.

4.  The calendar is designed around specific transition periods.  A spring planting in March is followed by a transition planting in May where 80% of the crops change from cool to warm.  A second transition is in September and cool season plants are done before the first frost.

5.  Cool season crops have the option to come out in November or overwinter to the following spring.  You don't have to overwinter crops every year.  It's perfectly acceptable to leave some or all of your beds fallow some winters.

6.  Two months before transplanting, seeds must be sown indoors so they can be up-potted and ready.  Tomatoes transplanted in May should be sown in March.  Lettuce transplanted in March should be sown indoors in January.  

 

These dates begin to make the calendar quite complicated for a simple graphic, but it's worth developing for a more explicit gardening protocol. 

Daikon Radish Dish

Autumn Leaves in the Garden

 Every year I get an abundance of fallen leaves from the 7 maple trees in my landscape.  I have mentioned in several places how I use them in the Autumn to enhance my garden, but I want to gather that information into one place so I can reference it consistently.

Managing Fall leaves is a prominent part of my garden management in October and November.  The leaves don't fall all at once, and if I leave them until the trees are bare, it can get overwhelming and also be bad for the lawns.  I just say this to mention that this is a task that will be spread out over several weeks and doesn't have to happen all at once.  

 

Step One.  In the fall, over the course of several weeks, I gather the fallen leaves from my yard in large black plastic contractor bags.  These are the 40-50 gallon bags made of 4-5 mil plastic.  These are larger and stronger than the 33 gal leaf bags or kitchen trash bags meant to go into a trash can.  I use these stronger bags to last an entire year, sitting outside in the weather.

The leaves are gathered in the grass catcher of my lawn mower, and as a result they are moderately shredded, not whole leaves.  The mower may also pick up grass clippings and weedy greens as well.  I'm not concerned about the purity of the contents, as long as it isn't sprayed with any chemicals.

I spray water from the hose into the bag, so that the mulched leaves are thoroughly wet.  I then tie up the top and leave them to work their decompositional magic.  I don't punch holes in the bags or do anything extra, with the intention of keeping this process as simple as possible.  I want the contents of the bags to retain moisture that the fungi need to work.  Then I store them on the shady side of my garden shed, out of direct sunlight, and simply leave them undisturbed.

The primary purpose of these bags is to create leaf mold, which will function as an effective soil amendment to the vegetable garden beds.  The leaves are broken down through fungal decomposition, which is an anaerobic process quite different from the aerobic bacterial process of composting.  This leaf mold does not want to be aerated or turned over, like compost will.  But the fungi working on the surface of the leaves will begin to break it down into smaller components and eventually turn it into something approximating soil.  

This process usually takes 12-18 months, depending on temperature.  The longer it works, the better it will be to amend the soil, but typically if you gather leaves in October, by the next October it will be noticeably finer.  If you then wait over winter to the following spring, it will be ready to be added directly to the soil  to increase fertility and conditioning. 

The number of bags I gather depends on what I need to do with the leaves, so we'll return to this question after our discussion.  

I use fallen leaves in four ways to enhance my garden and landscape.

One.  At any time of the year, I will use fallen leaves as a mulch to be applied to the surface of an existing garden.  I continually keep planted beds mulched to retain moisture, suppress weeds,  retain heat and keep the surface of the soil from hardening.  If I don't have leaves, I will use grass clippings instead.

I will mulch at the base of existing plants, and will completely cover the surface of beds that are unplanted if they are resting over the winter, for example.  Before the end of Autumn, I will make sure that each of my garden beds have been treated in this way.

Two.   In the Spring, I use this years crop of leaves to create watering Cores, using the core gardening method.  Before planting in the spring, I dig a trench down the center of each raised bed and lay down 6-8" of mulched leaves and grass.  Then I cover it over with 12" of garden soil for planting.  This 8"x8" core of organic matter soaks up and retains water throughout the growing season that the plants roots can access.  This process will reduce the overall watering needed for each bed, and will help the plants persist through the dry summer months.

Three.  Also in the Spring, I will use the well-rotted leaf mold in the 18-month old bags as a direct soil amendment, working it into the top layers of earth, in the same way that I add 1-2 bags of Black Kow composted manure to each bed.  I will typically make this major amendment before planting the heavy summer crops like tomatoes and peppers.

Four.  At the end of the growing year, I plan to renovate one of the four garden beds each year.  This involve a deep digging process to remove intrusive roots and attempt to push back and break up the hard packed clay another few inches.  I work the mowed leaves into this 2" of clay at the bottom of the bed to expand the depth of root space and condition the soil from underneath. 

At the end of November, there are always leaves left over, even after all the gathering is done.  For the front yard, I move these leaves into the woods, and for the back yard I use the riding mower to mulch them in place.

Greenhouse: Why?

To Extend the season.  You can grow things in the greenhouse and prevent them from freezing, extending the temperature of the growing season for a month at each end.  But keep in mind that low tunnels, that only enclose the garden bed itself, can be just as effective and can be easier to manage during the summer when they are no longer needed.

This is true, but in some locations it isn't the temperature but the lack of daylight that limits the growth.  

On October 11th, sunrise is 7:25 am and sunset is 6:25 pm for a total daylength of approximately 11 hours.  

The threshold of 10 hour days is typically when plants stop growing and developing.  On October 31st, daylength is approximately 10 hours.  Actual daylight hours, including twilight, is about an hour longer.     

On December 21, day length is 8:23 hours long in Virginia, the shortest day of the year.  On February 10th, daylength again crosses the 10 hour threshold when the most cold-hardy plants begin growing again.

A final thought on this topic is that if  you are primarily interested in extending your growing season, then using low tunnels can be a better option.  Cold Frames, low tunnels, and other temporary measures can be easier to work with, more manageable, and much less expensive.

To give yourself a place to work.  This is one of the more important functions of the greenhouse.  The greenhouse can be a general purpose workspace to support the rest of your garden.  It allows you to keep working in the garden even when its dark or raining. After work, after dinner, you still have a place to focus on your garden. You don't have to retreat indoors and abandon your thirsty plants.  It can also be heated, at least temporarily, in the winter. 

A place to start seedlings.  One of the biggest factors in starting seedlings is a space to work and spread out the seeds trays.  To harden off seedlings

Overwintering.  The greenhouse can be a place where you move sensitive plants indoors to escape the frost and snow.  In an unheated space, plants are still susceptible to deep sustained freezes.  But a greenhouse can keep dormant plants from being killed by lower temperatures that they wouldn't survive outside in the elements.

Outdoor Greenhouse: How

 I have often considered constructing a greenhouse at my urban homestead, and have created numerous low tunnel and high tunnel systems for growing later into the fall and earlier in the spring.  The question for me has been, what kind of a greenhouse do I want?  What size should it be and what materials should I make it out of.  Do I invest in a prefabricated aluminum and glass Elizabethan structure, or is a rough and ready DIY set up the most efficient and economical one?

The key to greenhouse success, for me, has been adopting a system that allows me to take an incremental approach to design and implementation.  Instead of going all in on a $5,000 commercial greenhouse right at the beginning, I found it better to start with a simple high tunnel greenhouse for a relatively modest investment.  But this will allow me to answer questions about where to locate it for optimal placement, what size it should be, and how I can best use the space.

Then, after I test it out and answer a few questions, I can begin to improve the existing structure.  Finally, I can confidently make a more substantial investment, knowing that I'm getting exactly what I need.

YEAR ONE

Step one.  Identify the location for the greenhouse.  This will give you a sense of what size you can accommodate.  Consider 8x10, 10x12, 10x16.  Go out into your yard and physically outline the working space you are talking about and see which one actually makes sense.

Step two.  Using concrete blocks outline a foundation for your greenhouse at the size you selected.  Level your blocks from corner to corner, digging down as needed and checking with a level to make sure that the foundation is perfectly level.  Leave an empty space in the front for the doorway.  Doors are typically 30" - 36".

Step three.  Spend some time to level the floor inside the foundation perimeter.  You don't want to create a pit that will trap water, so make sure that it can drain away.  At the same time, you want to level the floor so that it is flat.  Set the concrete blocks aside, and then cover the entire area with industrial landscape fabric that blocks light and resists tearing.  Replace the concrete blocks into their former location, resting directly on the landscape fabric and keeping it stretched tight.

Step four.  Use pressure treated 2x6, and lay them flat along the top of the concrete blocks, creating a wooden surface.  Drill holes through them and drive rebar through the 2x6s and into the ground.  These should be 2 feet on center.  The rebar should be 36" or longer so that the rebar sticks out the top of the concrete block by about 12".   This will form the spikes for the pvc walls.

Step five.  Using 3/4" pvc electrical conduit, join two 10' pieces together to form a large hoop.  Place one end of the pipe over the rebar on one side and bend it over to insert the other end over the rebar spike on the other side.  The spikes and the pvc ribs should be 24" apart. I use pvc fittings at the very top where the two 10' lengths join and then space the joints apart with connecting lengths of pvc.

Step six.  Using 2x4s, frame up the ends of the greenhouse to add structural support.  Create an opening for a 32" storm door at one end, but it can be covered by plastic to start.  At the hip intersection, extend a 1x3 or 1x4 board to keep even spacing between the ribs.

Step seven.  Create a double ridge pole from 2x4s, set 32" apart (based on the width you left for the storm door.  Secure the hoop ribs to these ridge poles.  Use mounting brackets where each pipe meets the ridge pole, two per hoop.  Using furring strips, attach an 8' diagonal brace reaching from the hip down to the 2x6 base, to keep the hoops perpendicular.

Step eight.  Use plastic sheeting to cover the end panels.    Cover the door end of the greenhouse separately from the sheet covering the hoops. 

Then, use a sheet of 10x25' 6 mil plastic sheeting to cover the entire greenhouse, from the back to just meet the front door panel.  Using 1" pvc pipe to hold the plastic sheeting in place at the base.  Attach a handle at one end so that the sides can be raised by rolling them up on the pipe.

Step nine.  Use plastic folding tables and wire framed shelving  inside the greenhouse to create a working space.  This will get you started for a relatively modest expense and the components will be waterproof and resilient.  Then, as you get a better idea of what you want, you can upgrade them to the cedar potting bench of your dreams.

Step ten.  Consider adding a shade cloth over at least one end, during the summer when temperatures can be hot inside the greenhouse.  Also consider your options for lighting, if you want to use the greenhouse as a workspace after dark.

YEAR TWO

After having used this temporary greenhouse for an entire year, you should have a better answer to several questions.  

This will give you a clear idea of the size of greenhouse you need.  Were your chosen dimensions adequate or should you really consider going a size larger?  Do you need more space to move around inside to work?  Was there room for shelves and work surfaces, seed starting and potted trees overwintering?  Everything that we have done so far has been with an eye to minimal investment and an impermanent installation that can be taken apart and resized.

Each of the components can be made more secure, more sturdy, more permanent.

For example replacing the sheeting on the ends with polycarbonate panels.  You can upgrade this to use clear polycarbonate panels, creating a more solid end. 

Upgrading to UV stabilized greenhouse film.  You can exchange your draped plastic door for one you construct on hinges, or install a regular storm door in the end with a handle that latches.

Consider the floor of the greenhouse and covering the landscape fabric with washed gravel.  

YEAR THREE

When this plastic begins to break down in 2-3 years, consider upgrading to greenhouse film

By year three, about the time the plastic sheeting wears out, you should consider replacing the pvc hoops with a framed roof covered with clear corrugated panels. 

Alternatively, you can consider buying a commercially constructed polycarbonate and aluminum greenhouse from Costco or Harbor Freight and installing it on top of your concrete block foundation.

Year Round Gardening Mini Class

 These are the notes taken from the Year Round Gardening Mini Course

Introduction:  The objective is to grow 365 days of the year.

Year Round gardening is focused on Fall and Winter Gardening.  However, to achieve that, the gardener must begin seeding in late August.  And in order to be able to do That, they need to have preparations ready in June and July.

• Crop selection, sourcing seeds
• Seed starting materials
• Location preparation
•  

  If you live in zone 8, 9.  Winter gardening is probably not particularly difficult.

Yes, you will need hoop houses, some winter protection. But not extreme measures.

Key Principles

1.  Crop selection.  Over 30 different crops that you can grow over the winter.  But. 7 crops that are considered the base crops.

2.  Timing.  When are you getting these crops started and how will you manage them. 

3.  Protection.  How do you cover the crops and protect them from cold temperatures, wind, precipitation. We're focusing in low input interventions.  We're not talking about adding heat, light and high intensity measures.

Part 1.  Crop Selection

Base Winter Crops

• Lettuce
• Spinach
• Carrots
• Swiss Chard
• Mache
• Bok Choi
• Kale

 

Lettuce  This is the least cold hardy of the winter crops.  Usually lasts until temps get down to 25 F.  Probably the one you want to eat earliest 

Spinach  The "workhorse" of the winter greens.  You can get as much as 8 months of harvest from one planting.  Start spinach about the 1st week of August.  Start harvesting in Mid October.  Some  years, you can harvest through until early May.

Swiss Chard.  Can be eaten young in salads, or as a cooked green.  

Bok choi and Asian Greens.  Not quite as hardy as Spinach.  Except for TatSoi.  The smaller leaves are as hardy as spinach.

Carrots:  Carrots benefit from cold temperatures, making them more sweet.  These are very hardy. and will last in the ground for the entire winter

Complete list of Winter Hardy Crops:

Part 2.  Timing

The key with winter growth is often not the temperature, but the day length.  Even if the hoop houses or cold frames keep the temperatures above freezing, plants often restrict their activity once the daylength reduces down beyond a certain threshold.  While they continue to live, they typically don't add any new growth during this time. 

This means that we need to have these fall and winter crops developed and "grown out" to the point where they can simply persist through the winter without relying on them to add much volume.  They have to be large enough to harvest, before those 10 hour days arrive.

The are about three months when day length decreases below the 10-hour threshold.  Typically from mid November through the end of February.  Starting again in March, day length increases to the point where plants can begin to be productive.

As Fall progresses, temps get progressively cooler, day length gets progressively shorter and plant productivity decreases.  Therefore, you want to sow early in the fall to make sure you have enough productive hours to establish your winter vegetables. Typically, you need to add 15 days to the expected time to maturity found on the seed packet, due to this decline in productivity.

As a general rule, begin planting about 2 months before the first frost date in the Fall.  So if your first frost date is October 1st, then you must begin planting two months earlier, about August 1.  And you have about a two-week window to get all your seeds started.   

Similarly, if the first frost date is November 15, then you should begin seeding on September 15.

August and September can be very productive months for the Summer garden, and there might be little space outside, so consider planting those seeds indoors.  This will also be beneficial for those plants that don't germinate well during the high temps of mid summer.  It may be cooler and moister environment indoors instead of the baking heat of mid August.  then you can transplant outside in October when other crops have finished.

Leaf Mulch and Grass Clippings

Like most suburban gardeners, I have two resources in abundance:  Grass clippings  and Fallen leaves.   Every time I mow my lawn during the summer, I replenish my supply.  And every fall, the leaves from the maples cover the ground inches thick.  Here, we need to discuss how to best use these resources to nourish the garden and avoid buying materials from the store.

Grass Clippings.  

The first and obvious application is that I use grass clippings to mulch the soil underneath my vegetable beds.  The classic case is to cover the ground under the tomatoes with fresh grass clippings. 

This does two things:  

1.  The mulch provides a protective layer that keep the soil beneath it moist.  It protects from the baking sun in the heat of summer; it allows rain water or hose water to percolate into the soil slowly and not simply run off of the hard surface; and it keeps the surface of the soil cooler, preventing soil moisture from evaporating rapidly.

2.  It does an amazing job of suppressing weeds.  I am speaking directly from personal experience. Bare soil becomes a carpet of volunteer weed seeds that need to be addressed weekly.  But covered with a mulch layer of grass clippings, emergent weeds are reduced to a tiny handful poking through the grass barrier.  These are easily pulled and simply added to the mulch layer.

In addition to its two primary benefits, grass clippings break down over time, adding nutrients to the soil.  Grass clipping mulch lasts for about 6 weeks and can be replenished on about a monthly basis, before the previous layer has disappeared.  At the end of the season, the mulch layer can be turned into the surface of the soil and will break down entirely over the winter.

The other thing I use grass clippings for is to add it to my compost tumbler over the summer as a green contribution.

Fallen Leaves.

The difference with fallen leaves is that they are only available seasonally, in the Fall.  And they don't decompose as readily so they have to be treated slightly differently.

Leaves decompose through an anaerobic process facilitated by fungi.  They need to be wet to produce leaf mold, unlike the aerobic process of composting, where air is incorporated into the mix.

Leaves by themselves are also useful as a top dressing mulch offering the same benefits as grass clippings for protection of the soil.  However, they have a much sturdier structural component and will break down much more slowly.  This makes them more long lasting, but a less available form of nutrients.

However, leaves will definitely improve soil fertility, introducing N, P, and K nutrients.  Leaves are the result of the trees extracting minerals from the soil depth and bringing it to the plant.  Some are deposited in the fallen leaves where they are available to enrich the surface soil.

Because of their particular structure, leaves improve soil moisture retention and also water drainage.  They add an organic element similar to peat in the soil profile.

Leaves and leaf mold are a much better habitat for worms and will attract worms to your garden bed.  Then, the worms themselves will aid in breaking down the leaves and incorporating them into the soil.

Create Leaf Mold

To create leaf mold, 

• In the Fall, gather the fallen leaves by using the mower to chop up the leaves and collecting them in the grass catcher bag.  If you gather some mowed grass at the same time, so much the better.
• Consider the species of leaves that you are collecting.  Generally you want leaves that are NOT waxy or tough. Avoid leaves from trees like holly and magnolia.  The needles from coniferous trees, pine and fir species, also don't break down rapidly. In addition, some trees have chemicals that are not good for your garden soil, such as black walnut and locust.  Better to leave them out, entirely.
  
• Depending on the structure of the leaves, you want to pour the leaves out onto the ground and mow them into the grass catcher again.  This breaks them into smaller pieces with greater surface area.  Some gardeners recommend as many as 4 passes through the shredder.  This makes the leaf mold ready more quickly.
  
• Bundle the leaves into contractor bags.  Don't use the common flimsy 30-gal black trash bags.  They aren't sturdy enough to last the entire year, and will likely break down in the weather when left outside.  Instead, you want the thick black 40 gal to 50 gal bags that are 5 mil plastic or thicker.
• An optional step is to rake up a small handful of leaves from back in the woods and add them to the top of your bags as a fungal inoculant.
  
• Water the bags thoroughly and roll them around to distribute the moisture.  Close the tops securely.  You can tie them or use a drawstring that will allow a little air exchange, but for the most part you want them to retain the moisture you added in the first place.  You don't want them to dry out over the course of the year, because then the process will come to a stop. You will be left with dry leaves at the end.  A moist environment makes the process work
  
• Then leave them in a shaded place, undisturbed to allow the fungi to do their work.  What can happen is that the thinner bags break down in the sun and allows vines and roots to invade the bag, stripping the leaf mold of their nutrients before you ever get to add them to the garden. The holes allow too much air exchange, and areas of the leaves dry out, stopping decomposition.
• Instead: use thick contractor bags, water the contents thoroughly, close the top securely, stack them out of the sun, leave them undisturbed for an entire year.
  

This process typically takes a full year to render the leaves into something approximating a soil amendment.  Even if they haven't completely broken down into soil, the resulting leaf fragments will quickly be incorporated into the raised beds and add structure and organic material as they do so.

I typically gather 4-6 bags in the Fall and put them in storage.  I also gather another 1-2 bags to sit next to my composting station to add to the bins when I need brown material.  This is just a small fraction of the amount of leaves that fall each year, so I don't feel that I have to capture the entire volume of fallen leaves.  The rest of the leaves are mulched in place or go into the woods at the back of my house.

The stored leaf bags sit behind the shed until the next Fall, but I typically won't use them until the following Spring.  Then, I open them and use them to amend my raised beds before planting the spring garden.  This gives the fungi 16-18 months to decompose the leaves.

Note that in that second Fall season, I'm gathering another 4-6 bags of freshly fallen leaves to keep the cycle going.  Over the winter I have one batch of maturing leaf mold, and one batch of freshly gathered leaves.  This gives me enough finished leaf mold to add one contractor bag's worth to each of my raised beds every year.