January is a month of planning, of looking ahead throughout the
gardening year. Not much is happening in the garden right now, as the
winter crops have basically become dormant even under the row covers.
They are gathering strength and quietly biding their time. And so
should we.
January is a dark month, but it allows you to see the garden in a leaf-off condition. This gives you a view of the stems and roots, unobstructed by leaves.
Our tasks in January depend a great deal on how we left the garden in November. At that time, we had to decide whether we were going to put everything to bed, or continue some crops through the winter under a row cover. If we were very energetic in the Fall, we could have one or more beds already planted and covered. Ideally, the unused beds might already be mulched and covered with landscape cloth or tarps. If so, then we can jump directly to step 2 and begin to clean up around the beds.
January is a dark month, but it allows you to see the garden in a leaf-off condition. This gives you a view of the stems and roots, unobstructed by leaves.
Our tasks in January depend a great deal on how we left the garden in November. At that time, we had to decide whether we were going to put everything to bed, or continue some crops through the winter under a row cover. If we were very energetic in the Fall, we could have one or more beds already planted and covered. Ideally, the unused beds might already be mulched and covered with landscape cloth or tarps. If so, then we can jump directly to step 2 and begin to clean up around the beds.
1. Begin in the garden by covering each of the raised beds.
In the Fall, we planned to cover each of the beds with 12" or more of mulched leaves. This layer will exclude nearly all of the weeds from growing and it will regulate moisture, acting as a sponge that will absorb soaking rains while still keeping the surface of the garden soil moist and soft. You want this layer to compact down and form leaf mold.If you didn't do this in the Fall, there's still time to spread a layer of leaves over the surface. Pull any existing weeds first and mulch the leaves with the mower first.
If you opt not to use leaves, we want to exclude the sunlight to prevent grass and weeds from taking over and robbing the soil of nutrients. We also need to begin drying out the beds so they aren't a sodden mass of mud that cannot be worked. After removing any existing weeds, cover the beds with a plastic tarp, weighing down the corners.
You may have already completed this step back in November when you removed the last of the Fall crops and if so, so much the better. Just make sure that the beds remain covered and that no persistent weeds have crept in around the edges. Arrange the tarps so that water runs off the beds, and not down into them.
Mow between the beds. Use a trimmer to remove the grass growing around the outside of the bed, restoring the neat appearance and preventing any intrusion from weed seeds.
Harvesting
Continue to clip a leaf here or there to use as an accent for salads. If any garlic become too tall and sets scapes, harvest them and use them in salads as you would a green onion.
Feeding the Beds
So I look over my notes to find out what worked, what grew well, what we ate all of, and what we didn't care for, what didn't thrive and what flourished. We should consult our Garden Planner, and our growing notes from last year. Finally, we come up with a list of the top performers for each season, including the variety name as well. This list will be our resource for ordering.
Question 2. Where to plant. We need to note where we planted last year, from our garden layout, for example, and then see how crop rotation can help with the coming season. We have three beds, so it may be a simple matter of rotating all the crops to the next bed over.
We need to focus within the bed as well. We can divide each bed in half or in thirds to identify where individual crops or planting groups will go. Then, we make a note of where we want everything to go, using the garden layout to document our decisions. This is the tool we will use and refer to throughout the year so we don't have to continually re-invent this particular wheel every time we need to harvest something and re-plant.
Question 3. When to plant. Our Garden Layout also reminds us that the wheel is continually in motion, and we have not just one crop but a series of seasons where crops must be planted, harvested and eaten to make room for new ones. So we will need at least three garden layouts, to cover the three growing seasons of the year.
Question 4. How many to plant. Once we decide what to plant, and what space we have to plant it, given our planting density, we know how many seeds to order, and how many seedlings to start in our propagator.
Now is the time to gather the seed catalogs. When ordering, we should place the order for the entire year. Now, at the beginning of the year, the seed companies and garden centers are fully stocked and will have whatever you order. Later in the year, they may well be out. Include at least one new plant, possibly an ornamental for the front bed, that fits into your planting layout. Seeds can be kept sealed in a ziploc in the refrigerator until they are ready to be sown. (I just started some swiss chard from 2009.)
Place a seed order for cool and warm crops. Also consider placing an order for a live plant shipment of summer crops like tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant, that can be placed now but will be delivered at the appropriate time for planting. This is not really necessary, but the arrival of live plants in May will certainly jump start any neglected gardening urges.
You may very well want to have the fun of buying live plants locally as the season progresses, so don't feel as if you have to order everything now. However, get at least a minimal order placed so that you have started the wheels in motion.
This is quite a list. I plan to keep seeds for three years so it is very likely that I won't need to buy all these seeds every year. And some of these I may just buy as live plants from the garden center, because I can spend $2.99 on a package of seeds or $3.50 for the one cherry tomato plant I need. Just replace the seeds that you will use as they are about to expire.
But ordering seeds in anticipation of the coming spring is an honored tradition among gardeners. It is one that should be upheld. Opening the package and holding the seed packets is like a second Christmas
Pay particular attention to nasty things like poison ivy and greenbrier. As much as possible, free up the mulberry tree in the corner. Cut everything you find back to the ground. You only want things to grow that you have intentionally included in your landscape plan.
You may have already completed this step back in November when you removed the last of the Fall crops and if so, so much the better. Just make sure that the beds remain covered and that no persistent weeds have crept in around the edges. Arrange the tarps so that water runs off the beds, and not down into them.
2. Weeding, Cleaning, Maintaining the garden area.
Let the tarps do their work for at least 2 weeks. Wait for a warm weekend, and then uncover and begin removing any weeds, alive or dead, from the beds.Mow between the beds. Use a trimmer to remove the grass growing around the outside of the bed, restoring the neat appearance and preventing any intrusion from weed seeds.
3. Tend the existing garden.
If we're following the 3-season plan, we should already have some plants growing in our garden. In the fall, we may have planted cabbage and garlic, kale and Daikon radish.Harvesting
Continue to clip a leaf here or there to use as an accent for salads. If any garlic become too tall and sets scapes, harvest them and use them in salads as you would a green onion.
Feeding the Beds
- Make sure the beds are well mulched, if there is any leaf mulch to be removed from the lawns.
- Check the soil to see if any watering is necessary; only a minimum in order to prevent fungus.
- Prune back any brush and clear the vines from the base of the fence line.
- Prune the fruit trees
- Turn the compost boxes
4. Planning
This is the month where you set out your plans for the coming year. Specifically, we need to decide:- What to plant (which type and variety of plant)
- Where to plant it (which bed and section of bed to plant in)
- When to plant it (which growing season and when the seasons change)
- How many to plant (the total number of individual plants based on the space we have)
So I look over my notes to find out what worked, what grew well, what we ate all of, and what we didn't care for, what didn't thrive and what flourished. We should consult our Garden Planner, and our growing notes from last year. Finally, we come up with a list of the top performers for each season, including the variety name as well. This list will be our resource for ordering.
Question 2. Where to plant. We need to note where we planted last year, from our garden layout, for example, and then see how crop rotation can help with the coming season. We have three beds, so it may be a simple matter of rotating all the crops to the next bed over.
We need to focus within the bed as well. We can divide each bed in half or in thirds to identify where individual crops or planting groups will go. Then, we make a note of where we want everything to go, using the garden layout to document our decisions. This is the tool we will use and refer to throughout the year so we don't have to continually re-invent this particular wheel every time we need to harvest something and re-plant.
Question 3. When to plant. Our Garden Layout also reminds us that the wheel is continually in motion, and we have not just one crop but a series of seasons where crops must be planted, harvested and eaten to make room for new ones. So we will need at least three garden layouts, to cover the three growing seasons of the year.
Question 4. How many to plant. Once we decide what to plant, and what space we have to plant it, given our planting density, we know how many seeds to order, and how many seedlings to start in our propagator.
Now is the time to gather the seed catalogs. When ordering, we should place the order for the entire year. Now, at the beginning of the year, the seed companies and garden centers are fully stocked and will have whatever you order. Later in the year, they may well be out. Include at least one new plant, possibly an ornamental for the front bed, that fits into your planting layout. Seeds can be kept sealed in a ziploc in the refrigerator until they are ready to be sown. (I just started some swiss chard from 2009.)
Place a seed order for cool and warm crops. Also consider placing an order for a live plant shipment of summer crops like tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant, that can be placed now but will be delivered at the appropriate time for planting. This is not really necessary, but the arrival of live plants in May will certainly jump start any neglected gardening urges.
You may very well want to have the fun of buying live plants locally as the season progresses, so don't feel as if you have to order everything now. However, get at least a minimal order placed so that you have started the wheels in motion.
5. Order from the Supplier
Throughout the year, we typically plant:Bok Choi
Swiss chard
Daikon Radish
Rutabaga
Romaine Lettuce
Green onion seed tape
Radish seed tape
Peppers: jalepeno, sweet peppers, bell
Tomatoes: roma, cherry, big boy
Green beans: bush type
Basil
Cabbage: red and green
Garlic, sets
Kale,
Red onion sets
Parsnips
Zucchini
Strawberries
Walking Onions
Sunchokes
This is quite a list. I plan to keep seeds for three years so it is very likely that I won't need to buy all these seeds every year. And some of these I may just buy as live plants from the garden center, because I can spend $2.99 on a package of seeds or $3.50 for the one cherry tomato plant I need. Just replace the seeds that you will use as they are about to expire.
But ordering seeds in anticipation of the coming spring is an honored tradition among gardeners. It is one that should be upheld. Opening the package and holding the seed packets is like a second Christmas
6. Sowing in the Propagator
It may be too early to start most of the newly arrived seeds, but the exception is Lettuce. Next month, we will begin the harvest of the winter crops, and as we bring in the cabbage, we will need to have lettuce to set out in its place. For next month, we will need 6 lettuce plants to be started now.7. Clean up along the fence and back in the woods.
With the leaves gone, it is much easier to see the stems of vines and woody brush. Take the opportunity now to clear the brush from along the fence. Back along the treeline, among the trees and along the fences, seedling vines and bushes have grown up slowly, just waiting for their chance to bolt up 6 feet and establish a presence. Crush their hopes.Pay particular attention to nasty things like poison ivy and greenbrier. As much as possible, free up the mulberry tree in the corner. Cut everything you find back to the ground. You only want things to grow that you have intentionally included in your landscape plan.
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